For stars like Meryl Streep, Sigourney Weaver, Helen Mirren, George Clooney, Denzel Washington and John Slattery (Roger Sterling on Mad Men), their age becomes part of their selling point. However, while George Clooney and Denzel Washington have both graced the cover of Esquire, one would be hard pressed to find a woman over 45 who graces the cover of a mainstream fashion magazine. On the surface, this seems to send the message that men of a certain age are still desirable while women are not.
Perhaps, however, it is not that men are allowed to age and still be attractive, but that the ways in which men and women are allowed to age are different. In a study on age and gender in anti-aging advertisements, Toni Calasanti notes that anti-aging products marketed to women focus on perfecting and rejuvenating the body to attract or remain attractive to men (Calasanti 344), men's anti-aging products are marketed to men with a focus on staying "young by enacting a masculinity that involves performance in areas of physical strength and sex," (Calasanti 345). Even if men are allowed to display their crow's feet and laugh lines, they are expected to perform athletically and sexually like younger men. Stars like Brad Pitt may be aging, but as long as they remain in shape and do not use (or do not admit to using) Viagra, they are still sexy. By extension, normal men who maintain their muscles and their manhood can still be sexy, too. It is worth noting that maintaining physical strength does relate to appearance, as exercising changes the way a body looks.
The images that define men in the media heavily influence the dialogue around men's aging. According to Richard Dyer, "the typical portrayal of men," is "images of men doing something," (Dutton 339) and that even when they appear relaxed, male models pose in such away that "the muscles are emphasised, hence drawing attention to the body's potential for action," which means that "the body quality most promoted in the objectified male body is musclarity," (Dutton 339). That men in images always appear to have the potential for action translates to power- the power to accomplish feats of strength and the power to move and to act. This gives men in images much more power than women in images, for whom "being looked at" signifies "powerlessness (or at least passivity)" (Dutton 335). While men may be objectified in certain images, "the exposed male body is... an inescapable affirmation of... masculinity and patriarchy," (Dutton 335). Thus, the benchmark by which men's attractiveness is measured is power- physically and sexually. The loss of muscle mass and erectile disfunction that come with old age represent a loss of male power- a loss of masculinity and a loss of attractiveness.
Increasingly, men are subject to the same scrutiny in appearance when it comes to wrinkles and other signs of aging. In the documentary Youth Knows No Pain, the audience is introduced to several male characters who actively fight the signs of aging, most notably, a plastic surgeon who regularly uses Botox on himself and a man who underwent cosmetic surgery and now gets acting gigs and is often mistaken for Jack Nicholson. That these men undergo cosmetic procedures with the same casual attitude about it as women demonstrates a shift in the way that men approach aging. Men's media sources such as Askmen.com are beginning to run articles on how to prevent wrinkles and companies like Nivea now offer wrinkle creams just for men.
Images of aging males are also the victims of photoshop. Whereas images of aging women are either noticeably photoshopped, such as this image of an entirely wrinkle-free Twiggy:
this one of Sarah Jessica Parker:
or the Burlesque poster in which Cher and Christina Aguilera appear to be the same age despite a 30-plus year age difference:
or not pictured at all, images of aging men are digitally altered in specific ways that allow them to show some signs of aging.
For example, this is George Clooney at an awards show:
He clearly shows signs of aging such as forehead wrinkles, crow's feet around the eyes and graying hair. However, on the cover of the April 2010 Indian GQ, George Clooney looked like this:
Here, his wrinkles have been smoothed out, but not entirely and his face has been lit in such away that it makes his skin appear brighter and younger. On this magazine cover, he is the very definition of aging gracefully.
This is Brad Pitt, allegedly without any digital alteration, on the cover of W:
Here's Brad Pitt on a 2009 cover of Esquire:
It is clear that the second picture has been altered, but like George Clooney's magazine cover, it has been altered to reduce signs of aging, not to eliminate them. That women's signs of aging are entirely eliminated while men's are merely reduced sends the message that women are not allowed to age. This, combined with the obviousness of the digital alterations in aging women's images, contribute to the idea that women do not age well and therefore need significant digital (and cosmetic surgery) enhancements to look good in their old age. Men are perceived to age better than women because they appear to not need photoshop and are allowed to age (but only to a certain extent). The reality is, of course, that all people age and some do it more gracefully than others, regardless of gender.
These images are harmful because digital alteration is applied not only to models and the celebrities seen above, but also athletes, political figures and even "ordinary" citizens (Wheeler 182). Even though as consumers, "we are used to unreal images," (Wheeler 182), they "diminish the self-esteem of impressionable readers," (Wheeler 185). We internalize these images, either as what we should look like or as what we want to look like, and we can never measure up. Images of aging men are particularly dangerous because they look more realistic; for the viewer, it is harder to see the digital alteration in George Clooney's GQ cover than Cher's Burlesque poster. Despite the fact that these photographs "constitute visual fiction," (Wheeler 181), it appears that these men just age extremely well, which raises the standard for all older men in the same way that a flawless model on the cover of Vogue raises the beauty standard for all women.
No longer are men's standards of aging confined to maintaining physical strength and sexual ability; men are more and more becoming subject to similar image-based standards as women. As the media we consume become part of our "extended nervous systems" (McLuhan 57), we are inundated with images and advertisements all dictating how to look, what to wear and even how to age. For its part, technology has allowed women and men to slow down the aging process through cosmetic procedures, digital photo enhancements, pills for medical conditions and all sorts of skin products that allegedly reduce wrinkles. We have become "differently human," in the sense that technology "allows us to bypass some of our most fundamental physical absolutes," (Dyens) such as aging. As for the question of if men age better than women, it appears that it is not that men age better, but rather that society views men's aging as different from women's. Men are allowed to show wrinkles, so long as they are not too deep, so long as they stay physically fit and so long as they are still able to have sex. However, standards are changing and men are starting to combat the same signs of aging that women combat.
Works Cited
Calasanti, Toni M. "Bodacious Berry, Potency Wood and the Aging Monster: Gender and Age Relations in Anti-Aging Ads." Social Forces 86.1 (2007): 335-55. Project Muse. Web. 18 Nov. 2010.
Dutton, Kenneth R. "The Body Observed." The Perfectible Body: the Western Ideal of Male Physical Development. New York: Continuum, 1995. 321-55. Print.
Dyens, Ollivier. "The Crater in the Yucatan." Metal Flesh and the Evolution of Man: Technology Takes Over. Print.
McLuhan, Marshall. "Media as Translators." Understanding Media; the Extensions of Man,. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1964. 56-61. Print.
Scruton, Roger. "Human Beauty." Beauty. Oxford: Oxford UP, 2009. Print.
Wheeler, Tom. "Cosmetic Retouching: Skin Deep?" Phototruth or Photofiction?: Ethics and Media Imagery in the Digital Age. Mahwah, NJ: Lawrence Erlbaum Associates, 2002. Print.
Youth Knows No Pain. Dir. Mitch McCabe. HBO, 2009.
I think this topic is fascinating–I've always felt it was unfair that men were allowed to show age, while women were not, but your journal shows that there are also limitations to older men. They can show a few wrinkles, but not too many, and must remain physically fit and sexually active. This also reminded me about the Newsweek Sarah Palin cover we discussed in class, where Newsweek was criticized for not photoshopping Palin's flaws. However, there was no controversy over Obama's covers, where there were obvious signs of his wrinkles, pores, and moles.
ReplyDeletehttp://cache.daylife.com/imageserve/05ApaSjeXfd7D/340x.jpg
I would assume this cover was at least somewhat photoshopped, though, as you point out, with men, it is okay to leave traces of age, as long as they look like they are aging gracefully, whereas women's wrinkles and flaws are usually completely done away with.
You talked about how men's photoshopped images are even more dangerous than woman's in some ways because it is very difficult to tell that they have been tampered with. But don't most people expect images to be photoshopped to the extent of these men's images, and not completely transformed as they are with women's images? If all images-men and women-were photoshopped in a way that merely reduced flaws and wrinkles, rather than taking everything away, do you still think this is a problem?
Renee,
ReplyDeleteI definitely think that regardless of the extent, photoshopping is a problem, but I think that when it's most damaging is when it is harder to tell because the images look more 'real'. To put it another way, I think that this image http://bit.ly/cF00Aj is less harmful than this image http://bit.ly/3SikbU because in the first, it is very obvious that the photograph has been worked on. Even though both images may make promote unrealistic beauty standards, I think that we would perceive the second image as being more real. We know that it is impossible to achieve the thin-ness in the first photograph, but the second one seems to be more natural and achievable, regardless of whether it is or not.
I guess that I see obviously photoshopped images as being in the realm of fantasy while images with slight or hard to determine photoshopping are more aspirational.
Great post Simone.
ReplyDeleteSomething that struck me was your point about over-40s (or over-30s) gracing the cover of popular magazines. Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Matt Damon, etc. have all been featured in GQ, Esquire, Details and other mainstream men's magazines. The equivalent female magazines (Cosmo, Glamour, Elle, Self, Shape) typically do not feature women over 40 or 50, and instead, relegate those women to covers of magazines dedicated to an older audience. I immediately think of the magazine "More," which "celebrates the twenty 'new' years women now have in the middle of their lives" and has an average readership age much higher than that of the other women's magazines I've listed above. Recently they've had Jane Lynch and Julianne Moore on the covers. Why do women get their own "second half of their lives" magazines while men do not? (...unless there is an equivalent for men and I'm mistaken. But the fact that I can't think of one off the top of my head says something as well.) It seems the answer lies in precisely what you have described above--the double standard that exists which says men can age gracefully and be sexy at any age (and therefore grace the covers of magazines 20s and 30-somethings read) while women have an expiration date at which point they fit into a new "older" woman category (at which point young women no longer want to see them on the covers of their magazines--they are no longer relatable).
to bounce off Elizabeth's post, I think that the george clooney/bratt pitt figures can appear on the covers of magazines for 20 and 30-something men, because they have become ideals of "manliness" and idols for their "sexual prowess." By this, I would venture that it's not only the fact they have physically aged gracefully, but also the fact that young women (or in Pitt's case, two of the arguably most beautiful women in the world) literally fight over them and/or are seen as "winning" him. in some ways, you could argue that these men are "gods" for aging and maintaining their sexual appeal to women half their age—and can appear on these younger male magazines because they are what these readers should aspire to be—handsome and sexually potent.
ReplyDeleteI'd also like to point out that this year, the three most prestigious fashion magazines' September issues—typically the biggest of the year (ad and page-wise)—hit newsstands with actresses in their 40s on the cover. Vogue featured Halle Berry (44), Harper's Bazaar had Jennifer Aniston (41), and Elle had Julia Roberts (42). Putting these actresses on the covers of arguably the most important issue of the year (Sept, for fall fashion) sends a message that though we live in a youth-obsessed culture, there's still something to be said for the enduring appeal of women who have been in the public eye for nearly 20 years. (Demi Moore was also on Harper's April issue and last December's W, at 47, she is the oldest cover model of all these magazines.)
so what does this all show? I think that by featuring "older female" actresses on the covers, especially with their extreme degrees of retouching, magazines (and happily their advertisers) are challenging "older" readers to embrace/believe that they, too, can look 10 years younger than they are, "just read inside (and see the ads) to find out how!" This of course also lures in "older" readers, (Harper's Bazaar has a regular feature on "how to look great at all ages") basically looking to gain a wider range of readers—and increase their monthly readerships. I think it's all part of a shrewd business plan. But I'm probably being excessively cynical.
In her blog, Rachel mentioned the V Magazine "who cares about age" issue with Jane Fonda, Susan Sarandon, and Sigourney Weaver gracing the cover -- all of whom are over 60 (Fonda is 72): http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/alltherage/2010/11/like-a-fine-wine-v-magazine-celebrates-50-divas.html and Julianne Moore, at 50, is a frequent magazine cover favorite -- so it's not exactly that women over 40 are completely absent from this space(all of them airbrushed, no doubt), but Elizabeth makes a great point: that women over 40 are given special "mature" magazines, while men of the same age generally are not redirected to a special publication for "aging" men. Why do you think this is?
ReplyDelete(Also, as an aside, I saw Burlesque with my mother who, at 63, is only 1 year younger than Cher. It's worth seeing the film if only to marvel at the extreme preservation of Cher. The Holson article, "No Surgery, Please," resonated as I longed to see Cher's face move or express some hint of emotion. Spoiler alert: It never did.)